How is alopecia areata treated?

How is alopecia areata treated?

In approximately 50% of patients, hair will regrow within a year without any treatment. The longer the period of time of hair loss, the less likelihood that the hair will regrow. A variety of treatments can be tried. Steroid injections, creams, and shampoos (such as clobetasol or fluocinonide) for the scalp have been used for many years. Other medications include minoxidil, irritants (anthralin or topical coal tar), and topical immunotherapy (cyclosporine), each of which are sometimes used in different combinations.
A study reported in the journal Archives of Dermatology (vol. 134, 1998;1349-52) showed effectiveness of aromatherapy essential oils (cedarwood, lavender, thyme, and rosemary oils) in some patients. As with many chronic disorders for which there is no single treatment, a variety of remedies are promoted which in fact have no benefit. There is no known effective method of prevention, although the elimination of emotional stress is felt to be helpful. No drugs or hair-care products have been associated with the onset of alopecia areata. Much research remains to be completed on this complex condition.

Alopecia Areata At A Glance

• Alopecia areata is a hair-loss condition which usually affects the scalp.
• Alopecia areata typically causes one or more patches of hair loss.
• Alopecia areata tends to affect younger individuals, both male and female.
• An autoimmune disorder, in which the immune system attacks hair follicles, is believed to cause alopecia areata.
• For most patients, the condition resolves without treatment within a year, but hair loss is sometimes permanent.
• A number of treatments are known to aid in hair regrowth. Multiple treatments may be necessary, and none consistently works for all patients.
• Many treatments are promoted which have not proven to be of benefit.

Alopecia Areata

What is alopecia areata?

Alopecia areata is a hair-loss condition which usually affects the scalp. It can, however, sometimes affect other areas of the body. Hair loss tends to be rather rapid and often involves one side of the head more than the other.
Alopecia areata affects both males and females. This type of hair loss is different than male-pattern baldness, an inherited condition.

What causes alopecia areata?

Current evidence suggests that alopecia areata is caused by an abnormality in the immune system. This particular abnormality leads to autoimmunity. As a result, the immune system attacks particular tissues of the body. In alopecia areata, for unknown reasons, the body's own immune system attacks the hair follicles and disrupts normal hair formation. Biopsies of affected skin show immune cells inside of the hair follicles where they are not normally present. What causes this is unknown. Alopecia areata is sometimes associated with other autoimmune conditions such as allergic disorders, thyroid disease, vitiligo, lupus, rheumatoid arthritis, and ulcerative colitis. Sometimes, alopecia areata occurs within family members, suggesting a role of genes and heredity.

LIGHTEN HAIR NATURALLY

Lighten Hair NaturallyThere are many natural answers to the question how to lighten hair naturally. The following are some ways to lighten hair naturally.

The most natural way to lighten hair naturally is sunshine. Sunlight bleaches the hair to a lighter shade naturally. So just lie down in the sun, properly covering your body with a cloth to avoid sunburn with only your hair exposed to the sunlight. By spending some time outside will give your hair natural highlights that can be as light as you want.

Tea is another natural way to lighten hair naturally. You can steep your household tea and let it cool. Apply it to your hair and see the results. Tea won't give you instant results, thus you need to be patient. Before applying tea all over your head, apply some to the hair at the back of your neck. So if the hair color takes an ugly shade, it can remain well hidden. If you find the shade is fine, apply it over full head.

Swimming is another great way to lighten your hair. After a swim, lie in the sun, covering your body and expose your wet hair to the sun. The sun will naturally dry and lighten your hair. If you have been swimming in pool water with chlorine in it, it will help fasten the process of lightening hair naturally.

Blond or light brown hair can be lightened naturally using lime juice. Mix lemon juice with some water and apply to the hair. Lemon juice tends to dry hair and make them brittle. Thus, mix one tablespoon of juice with a gallon of water. Use this solution daily, till the desired effect is reached.

You can even use Chamomile flowers to lighten blond hair. Steep half a cup of Chamomile flowers in one quart of boiling water for half an hour. Strain and apply the cooled mixture over your hair. You should catch the mixture in a container and repeat the process 10-20 times depending on how light you want your hair. Leave the mixture in hair for 15 minutes and rinse hair later.

Rhubarb is another way to lighten hair naturally. Add citrus juice like lemon, grapefruit or pineapple to Rhubarb. Use this mixture over the hair to lighten hair naturally. You may need several applications to reach the desired effect.

Ideas of Gray Hair Styles

Gray hair styles for women give a nice textured look, and many people actually love getting textured hair by coloring. Hence, many people tend to go for lowlights to get a textured hair look. Many people even tend to go with coloring gray hair to cover their graying hair. But, having naturally gray hair, will give a nice salt pepper look. Men who have gray hair look great and even attractive. Women, when going for gray hair style need to be a little bit careful, short or medium length gray hair styles on women look good.

Ideas of Gray Hair Styles for Women

Short Pixie Cuts: These short hairstyles look great as hairstyle for older women. To get a pixie cut, the hair on the back and sides are cut into short crops, and the front of the hair is cut into blunt bangs or, for a stylish look, into long sweeping bangs.

Long Layered Styles: If you have medium or long hair, then you can get classic layered hairstyles. A side parted layered style with side bangs looks great. This style is a good idea if you have fine straight hair.

Trendy Short Styles: These gray hair styles for young women are very popular and suit people of all face shapes. To get these styles, get you crown hair cut a bit stacked, and the back hair cut short near the nape of the neck. Then style the front hair with side sweeping bangs. The side hair should be cut in pieces and should fall above the ear and look tapering. To get the sleek style look, get a razor cut done on these gray hairstyles for women.

Bob Styles:. You can go with a nice layered short bob cut with side bangs, or for a trendy look go with a nice graduated bob style. For a graduated bob style, the hair near the nape of neck are cut very short near the nape of the neck, and the hair on the sides are kept longer.

Hair Color Ideas for Brunettes

Hair Color Ideas for BrunettesThe type of hair color that you will be using also depends upon your skin tone. If you naturally have a beautiful hair color, you can just add a little bit of extra color to make it look shiny and gorgeous. If you wish to try something different, here are hair color ideas for brunettes with different skin tones.


Hair Color Ideas for Fair Skinned Brunettes: Fair skinned people are advised to go for warmer shades of brown that help in complementing their fair skin. You can have light brown shades like honey brown or copper brown, if you wish to have a uniform color for all your hair. If you are thinking of just highlighting your hair, you can go for golden or light red highlights that will embellish your natural brown.


Hair Color Ideas for Olive Skin: Coffee or chestnut hair colors look best on olive skin or medium skin tones. It is also recommended for olive skin people to have their hair colored in single color that complements the skin. In case you wish to highlight your hair, you can go for golden streaks in the naturally brown hair.


Hair Color Ideas for Dark Skinned Brunettes: People with dark skin have warm skin tone. Therefore, you can opt for dark hair colors suitable for warm skin tones. Hair color ideas for black women include richer and darker brown shades like chocolate brown or caramel color. For highlighting your hair, you can opt for bronze hair color. You can even have plum hair color for a more glamorous and adventurous look.

Hair Color Ideas for African Americans: The natural 'brunette' colors look best for African Americans. You can go for the lighter shades like cappuccino brown or mocha brown to darker shades like copper. You can also have hair colors in darker shades of red like burgundy, cinnamon or wine color.

Brown Hair Coloring & Highlighting Ideas

Brown Hair Coloring & Highlighting Ideas
So, first find the category you belong to, using the below mentioned color compatibility chart. And then use any of the below mentioned hair color ideas for brown hair and brown hair highlights on other base colors.

• If you have blonde hair color, then use a shade of medium to dark brown hair color, and use this color to add lowlights to your hair. This will give a beautiful textured and fall look. If you have a base of shiny brown hair, then use some light caramel color highlights on your hair to make your hair look even more stunning.
• On a base of dark brown hair, go with some highlights at the crown of auburn hair color.
• On a base of dark brown hair add lots of skinny highlights of ash blonde or beige color. This will add a natural and subtle textured hair color look.People with warm skin tones and eye color, can change their natural hair color to a deep and rich shade of chocolate with some skinny golden blonde highlights, or go with a rich caramel hair color.
• People with golden blonde hair color can go with few streaks of light brown hair color.
• On a base of shiny raven black hair add hair highlights of chestnut brown or some auburn brown highlights.

CRAZY HAIR COLOR IDEAS FOR MEN

When you're bored of your natural hair color, you can always try a new one! It is a common understanding that coloring hair is not very healthy for it, which is true if you do it regularly, with high ammonia hair colors. Men however have a different texture of hair, which is strong, rough and can tolerate ammonia on a higher level. This does not mean that you can color your hair very often because that way even they can become weak and turn brittle. Hair coloring should be done once in six months and that too with a color that has very low ammonia content. When you have a natural hair color like black, dark brown, light brown, blond or sometimes even gray, it's always nice to get a change. A new hair color makes a very big difference in the way you look, and thus trying something completely opposite may or may not be a great choice.

Crazy Hair Color Ideas for Men

When you think of changing your natural hair color to something else, you almost lose that color for the next one year. So, make sure you want to get a color change, because there are many examples of hair blunders which occur due to choosing the wrong color. You also have to make sure, the color suits your skin tone and whether you want to get streaks, hair highlights or some other hairstyles. Men usually don't have hair as long as women, and it is also known, that the time taken for their hair growth is lesser than women (hence, blunders could be safe). In the hair color ideas for men, you can opt for single toned, two toned and multi toned hair highlights or simple colors to make you look very attractive.

COLOR FOR OLIVE SKIN TONE

Hair color ideas for olive skin include brown, black and darker blond shades which really complement people with olive skin tone. The other factor which should be considered while choosing the hair color is the eye color. People with dark brown eyes and olive skin should go for shades like ash brown, coffee or blue black. Shades like golden brown or dark strawberry look charming on hazel or green eyes. If you want a bolder look, you can go for red or violet. However, dark red will suit people with olive skin tone rather than the other shades of red.

Highlights
Dark blond hair color with dark brown highlights is one of the best hair color ideas for olive skin. People with olive skin tone should avoid coloring their entire hair in blond color. Brown hair color with blond highlights also goes well with olive skin. People with warmer olive undertones should opt for cooler shades of hair color highlights and the ones with cooler undertones should go for warmer or darker shades of highlights.

Non Complementing Colors
One of the most important hair color ideas for olive skin tells you about the hair color shades you should avoid. Olive skin tones with lighter shades is not a good combination. People with olive skin tones should avoid coloring their hair with shades that are three times lighter than their skin color. Olive skin color and platinum bond is a strict no no. People with cooler undertones can opt for golden shades which look paler.

How curls are created

Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a protein, which grows from the follicle. Keratins, and other proteins, are formulated in the cells of the hair follicle. All of the proteins become a part of the hair shaft and contain sulfur atoms. When two sulfur atoms pair up and bond, they form a disulfide bond. If the two sulfur atoms in the same protein are at a distance, and join to form the disulfide bond, the protein will bend. This is how your curls are created.

Benefits of Adding Layers

Types of Layered Hair Styles

Many different hair styles can incorporate layers, from bobs to bangs to teen dos. Even today's trendy looks such as sedu hair styles can incorporate layers for flair and individuality.
Not every type of hair can use layers, however. Very curly hair does not layer well, because the curls tend to tighten and disrupt the layered look, creating a scruffy appearance. Similarly, individuals who like to change their styles frequently may not want to attempt layers, because it can take years to grow out them out. The key to fabulous layered hair styles is to choose the proper types of layers and use them to their full benefit to create a stunning look.

Layer Length

Layers can be cut in many different lengths. Some styles use a large number of layers cut closely together to create an overall fringe, while other styles may only have a few different lengths positioned for the best effect. The best range for layers is to keep them below the earlobe on long hair, and below the eye on short hair, otherwise they may look out of control. Another tactic that many layered looks use is to have the very top layer full length, while layers underneath add volume and bounce to the style without sacrificing the sleek, sophisticated look. Layers may be straight, angled, or curved to fit any style preferences.

Benefits of Adding Layers

Layered hair styles have many benefits. Adding layers can modernize an old style without too drastic of a change, and layers can be both flirty and elegant, making them appropriate for any age. Other benefits to adding layers include:

• Different layers create natural volume to hair without needing excessive chemicals.
• Layers can help heavily damaged hair by cutting off split or broken ends for a more planned look.
• Layers can be cut to balance any face shape.
• Creating layers can lighten very thick, heavy hair, allowing its natural waves to appear in medium and long styles.
• Individuals who suffer from migraines may find some relief with lighter layered styles.

HAIR FOLLICLE

A hair follicle is a part of the skin that grows hair by cramping old cells tightly. Attached to the follicle is a sebaceous gland, a tiny sebum-producing gland found everywhere except on the palms, lips and soles of the feet. The thicker the density of the hair, the more the number of sebaceous glands that are found.
Also attached to the follicle is a tiny bundle of muscle fiber called the arrector pili that is responsible for causing the follicle lissis to become more perpendicular to the surface of the skin, and causing the follicle to protrude slightly above the surrounding skin (piloerection) and a pore encased with skin oil. This process results in goose bumps (or goose flesh). Stem cells are located at the junction of the erector and the follicle, and are principally responsible for the ongoing hair production during a process known as the Anagen stage.

CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS

Chemistry of shampoos

 

People expect a lot from shampoos. Unfortunately, it is not easy to tell a good shampoo from a poor one. Cost, fragrance, and lots of foam is what most people look for in shampoo products. Lather and foam is of little importance , but they often get the most attention.

Foaming occurs when surfactant molecules gather around air instead of oil. The result is millions of tiny bubbles. Obviously, the air bubbles are using the surfactants that should be removing dirt and oil. We have all seen shampoo advertisements showing happy, beautiful people taking showers with their heads heaped high with mounds of lather. These images have taught the public to associate lather with cleansing ability.

The truth is, lots of foamy lather only means too much shampoo was used. Excess foam equals waste. Sebum and other oils quickly destroy foam. Ideally, the head should have just enough lather to lubricate the scalp and hair. This will help your fingers massage the shampoo more effectively into the hair.

Fragrances and foaming qualities are not good ways to evaluate shampoos. Examine the hair's condition after several uses. Is it flyaway, is it hard to comb, does it seem limp, do colors fade, is the hair dry or the scalp itchy?

Carefully choose the shampoo to use and recommend. The quality of your services and the success of your repeat business may depend on the decision of product choice

 

The major types of surfactants are:

Anionic (an-eye-ON-ick)

Cationic (kat-eye-ON-ick)

Nonionic (non-eye-ON-ick)

Amphoteric (am-fo-TERR-ick)

Identification and names are important in all professions but for chemists, they are especially useful. Chemists try to choose names that provide information about the chemical. For example, anionic and cationic surfactants both end with "ionic" for a reason. These surfactants are a special type of chemical called an ion. Salt bonds are important type of chemical bonds in the hair. Salt bonds give hair many important properties and affect most chemical treatments. Although the term salt bond is used frequently in cosmetology, it is incorrect. These chemical bonds are actually called ionic bonds, and they occur between ions. Ions and ionic bonds are really quite simple to understand. Ions are molecules that have small electrical charges. These charges are positive or negative. They repel or attract each other. Opposite charges attract and similar charges repel.

Table salt, sodium chloride, is an excellent example. Sodium forms positive ions and chlorine makes negative ions. The opposite charges attract each other and make table salt. These charges are identical to those found in batteries or static electricity, but on a much smaller scale. Individual ionic bonds are very weak, but millions of them in combination are quite strong. Surfactants with a negative charge are called anionic. A surfactant with a positive charge is cationic.

 

Anionic Surfactants (Negatively charged ion) Anionic surfactants are the most widely used detergents in the cosmetology profession. They are inexpensive, simple to prepare, and excellent cleaners. They also rinse easily from the hair. A major disadvantage is that they can be harsh and irritating to the scalp Frequently, other surfactants and ingredients are added to reduce skin irritation.

 

Cationic Surfactants (Positively charged ion) Cationic surfactants are rarely used in high concentrations in the cosmetology profession. Many types are dangerous to the eyes but are safe and useful in low amounts. Until recently, their positive charges prevented them from being mixed with negatively charged anionic surfactants. Newer types, however, eliminate this incompatibility.

 

Look at the label!!! Here is a guide to how gentle your shampoo is according to the surfactant used:

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - very, very, harsh

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate- very harsh but better than the above

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate- better than the above, but still a little harsh

Sodium Laureth Sulfate-gentle, great pick!

TEA lauryl Sulfate-good pick

TEA Laureth Sulfate-good pick

Preventing Damage Hair

Preventing Damage

Damage to the hair is usually caused by heat (irons, blow drying, curlers, heat lamps, etc.), U.V. rays (Sun, lights, tanning beds), mechanical devices (combs, brushes, curling irons, etc.), chemicals (color, perms, relaxers, pool chemicals, the air, etc), or poor diet (specifically -lack of proteins and essential fatty acids).

Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent damage to your hair:

1) Use a thermal protector when using heat. See "thermal protectors" under conditioners

2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little moisture in.

3) Use a conditioner with U.V. protectors built in.

4) Use a low or no ammonia hair color.

5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.

6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb.

7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends and work up.

8) Clarify your hair after you swim.

9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.

10) Eat protein rich foods (chicken, fish, nuts) - Eat foods rich in essential fatty acids (not from animal sources [they contain cholesterol]-only from botanical sources) -

COLORING RED HAIR WITH BLONDE HIGHLIGHTS

While tinting red hair with blonde highlights, the size, number and location of the highlights are the keys to achieving the look you desire. If you want your highlights to blend with the rest of your hair, you should get slim highlights on the crown of your head. However, if you want noticeable highlights, you can get large blocks of hair colored blonde. If you want to spice up a simple shoulder-level bob, you can add highlights in a way that your hair transitions from red to blonde in places. If you have layered hair, a slightly unusual option is to have blonde highlights at the back. If you have long red hair in shades of mahogany, copper, auburn, etc. a look you can experiment with is blonde lowlights, which is also very trendy.

WARM DARK HAIR COLORS

Warm Dark Hair Colors The people who belong to warm category are those who have warm skin tone and warm eye color. If you have brown skin tone with pink or golden undertones, freckled complexion, pale complexion with peach or golden undertones, or ruddy complexion, then you have warm skin tone. The eye color can be hazel eyes with brown or golden flecks, golden brown eyes, greenish blue eyes, or green eyes. If you don't have these eye or skin colors, then you belong to the cool category, so refer to the section under 'cool category' to know about dark hair coloring ideas.

Base Hair Color Options

• Golden brown
• Dark brunette
• Auburn red
• Dark auburn
• Chestnut brown

Warm Dark Hair Colors Highlights

• Dark hair with blonde highlights of shiny blonde looks great on warm hair colors.
• Reddish orange highlights suit well.
• You can also get copper streaks on dark brown hair colors.
• If you are looking for dark hair colors for fair skin, then go with a base of dark brown hair color, and streaks of honey blonde.

Warm Dark Hair Colors with Lowlights
When it comes to getting lowlights hair coloring ideas for dark hair, select a shade which is 2-3 shades darker than your base hair color. If you wish to go for lowlights then use these ideas.

• Base hair color of medium auburn, and dark auburn lowlights.
• Base hair color of medium brown, and dark brown
• On medium blonde hair color, lowlights of deep brown hair color.

HOW 2 CHOOSE THE BEST OVER THE COUNTER HAIR COLOR

How to Choose the Best Over the Counter Hair Color
Choosing a hair color is not only fun when it comes to best over the counter hair color as you have to keep certain things in mind. Before you select any color and experiment with various hair color ideas, it is important that you know why you want to color your hair. Is it that you want to hide gray hair or you just want to experiment with your looks. The purpose of analyzing your reason is that there are hair colors which can answer your problems aptly. For example, there are many best over the counter hair colors to cover gray but they cannot be used by people who want to experiment with their look. The ingredients of the hair color differ as per each purpose they are meant for, so you must go for best hair color product that justifies your reason.

You also have to decide weather you want to go for permanent or temporary hair coloring. Permanent hair color contains more chemicals that help the color last longer, whereas temporary hair color contains less chemicals and withers away in few weeks or so. There is another type of hair color known as stains, which washes off with every shampoo allowing you to enjoy lighter shade as the colors fade away. Apart from this, you also must decide if you want to color chunks, strands, or the entire hair. If you wish to color the entire hair you may have to go for hair colors that rebound the hair properly. For this you also have to consult your stylist because once your hair color is changed you cannot do anything until it goes off completely. And lastly, you must choose from the shades of hair color that would suit you most appropriately. So, it is essential that you get the right and best over the counter hair color so that your hair is not damaged and you get the most perfect look.

Reddish Shades

Reddish ShadesA majority of black women prefer red hair color shades due to their flattering appearance. There are many options which you can choose from such as bright, vibrant red shades that are close to the primary red color. These red shades really look good on medium, light, or medium brown complexion. To dye originally black or deep brown hair, the procedure to get a red tone is not as harsh as it is to get a blonde color. Brown colored hair can generally be dyed in just one single process, whereas black hair might be required to be lifted of color, prior to depositing the red dye. When it comes to hair color ideas for dark skin, various copper shades would also create a warm look

Doing Chuncky Highlights

Another way is to try the chunky hair highlights. Pick a shade for the top half of your hair. The natural hair shade will be the color at the bottom half of the hair. Use foils and create thick chunks of streaking color, along the top of your head. Color the specific hair strands, by separating them using foils. You can even color the areas outside the foil, using a secondary color. This will give you a customized two toned look.

This visually appealing hair coloring style, looks decent and adds the extra zing to your persona. You can choose contrasting natural shades to double tones. Two tone hair color creates a look of attitude, without compromising on the girl-next-door image. So go ahead and set the town on fire, with your two tone hair color!

TWO TONED HAIR COLOR STYLES

Two Toned Hair Color Styles

There are basically three styles of two toned hair color:

Top and Bottom layers: The top and bottom are fully colored using a different color shade. This is the most preferred type of coloring among all the hair coloring styles. The lighter tone is usually used on the top and the lower layers are colored using the darker shades of a contrasting color.

Chunks: You can add a second color to go along with your natural hair color. You can create a colorful look by adding chunks, either in the bangs or along the cheeks.

Cored Tips: This funky style looks well with short haircuts. You can add about half an inch of color on the tips of your hair to create a lively two tones hair color effect.

The Anagen Phase

Anagen phase

Anagen is the active growth phase of hair follicles.The cells in the root of the hair are dividing rapidly, adding to the hair shaft. During this phase the hair grows about 1 cm every 28 days. Scalp hair stays in this active phase of growth for 2–7 years. The amount of time the hair follicle stays in the anagen phase is genetically determined. At the end of the anagen phase an unknown signal causes the follicle to go into the catagen phase.

MATRIX - Around the papilla

Matrix
Around the papilla is the hair matrix, a collection of epithelial cells often interspersed with the pigment producing cells, melanocytes. Cell division in the hair matrix is responsible for the cells that will form the major structures of the hair fiber and the inner root sheath. The hair matrix epithelium is one of the fastest growing cell populations in the human body, which is why some forms of chemotherapy that kill dividing cells or radiotherapy may lead to temporary hair loss. The papilla is usually ovoid or pear shaped with the matrix wrapped completely around it except for a short stalk-like connection to the surrounding connective tissue that provides access for the capillary.

Part 2 of choosing the correct hair color

Cool Category
People who belong to the cool category can have eye color blackish brown, dark brown, grayish blue, dark blue or hazel colored with light flecks. The skin tone can be bronze or brown complexion after tanning, pale complexion with pink undertones or no color, olive complexion, medium complexion with golden undertones, medium complexion with light pink color in the cheeks or no color or dark brown complexion. Such people should go with shiny raven black hair base. Cool blonde shades like mink or icy white also look great. The hair highlights can be of honey, wheat or ash color. Such people can also go with purple or burgundy shades. People who belong to the cool category should avoid blonde, yellow, red or bronze shades.

choosing the correct hair color

Warm Category

People who belong to the warm category can have their eye color golden brown, greenish blue, green, hazel eyes with brown or golden flecks. The skin tone can be freckled complexion, pale complexion with golden or peach undertones, ruddy complexion or brown skin tone with golden or pink undertones. Such people should opt for warm and dark shades of brown. Shades like golden brown and chestnut brown can also look great. Base colors or hair dye of reddish orange or shiny blonde also look great on the warm category people. Best option of highlights are copper streaks, golden brown or golden shades. People belonging to the warm category should avoid blue, purple, ash or beige shades belonging to blonde hair color wheel.

The Cystine Bond

The Cystine Bond

The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond, or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues (amino acids) of the main polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular to the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains. Because of its position in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance. (It actually holds the hair fibers together.) These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber, with maximum of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns of the alpha helix. This is what enables us to permanent wave the hair.

THE SALT BOND

The Salt Bond

 

The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled) bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group (an amino acid with an 00C- group) to the side chain of an acidic amino acid, i.e. NH3+. (This is two positive and negative charges attracting one another.) This occurs in a position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the helix of the hair. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.

The Hydrogen Bond

The Hydrogen Bond

The first bond we will discuss is the hydrogen bond. This bond is located between the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity) and return back to its original shape. The hydrogen bonds allow us to change the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water. These bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily broken down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity (some would argue up to 99.9% of the hair’s elasticity).

Ways to prevent damage hair

Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent damage to your hair:

1) Use a thermal protector when using heat.

2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little moisture in.

3) Use a conditioner with U.V. protectors built in.

4) Use a low or no ammonia hair color.

5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.

6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb.

7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends and work up.

8) Clarify your hair after you swim.

9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.

10) Eat protein rich foods (chicken, fish, nuts) - Eat foods rich in essential fatty acids (not from animal sources [they contain cholesterol]-only from botanical sources)

The Oxidizing Agents

The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer - is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.

10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening.
20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening
30 Volume - . Strong lightening action with less color deposit.
Bleaching Boosters - can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions . Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.

Hair Coloring

It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - blue will make it a brown/black color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.

One of the most important elements of haircoloring is determining the hairs' "underlying pigmet" (the hairs' natural color.) When you chose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.

Underlying color + Artifcial color = Final result 

Levels of Hair Color

1=Black

2=Very Dark Brown

3=Dark Brown

4=Brown

5=Medium Brown

6=Light Brown

7=Dark Blonde

8=Light Blonde

9=Very Light Blonde

10=Light Platium Blonde

Hair Follicle

A hair follicle is a part of the skin that grows hair by cramping old cells tightly. Attached to the follicle is a sebaceous gland, a tiny sebum-producing gland found everywhere except on the palms, lips and soles of the feet. The thicker the density of the hair, the more the number of sebaceous glands that are found.
Also attached to the follicle is a tiny bundle of muscle fiber called the arrector pili that is responsible for causing the follicle lissis to become more perpendicular to the surface of the skin, and causing the follicle to protrude slightly above the surrounding skin (piloerection) and a pore encased with skin oil. This process results in goose bumps (or goose flesh). Stem cells are located at the junction of the erector and the follicle, and are principally responsible for the ongoing hair production during a process known as the Anagen stage.
The average growth rate of healthy hair follicles on the scalp is half an inch per month.

Hair- follicles cycling

Hair grows in cycles of various phases: anagen is the growth phase; catagen is the involuting or regressing phase; and telogen, the resting or quiescent phase. Each phase has several morphologically and histologically distinguishable sub-phases. Prior to the start of cycling is a phase of follicular morphogenesis (formation of the follicle). There is also a shedding phase, or exogen, that is independent of anagen and telogen in which one of several hairs that might arise from a single follicle exits. Normally up to 90% of the hair follicles are in anagen phase while, 10–14% are in telogen and 1–2% in catagen. The cycle's length varies on different parts of the body. For eyebrows, the cycle is completed in around 4 months, while it takes the scalp 3–4 years to finish; this is the reason eyebrow hairs have a much shorter length limit compared to hairs on the head. Growth cycles are controlled by a chemical signal like epidermal growth factor.

Alopecia is the technical term for abnormal hair loss

Alopecia is the technical term for any abnormal hair loss. The most common types of alopecia are androgenic alopecia, alopecia areata, and postpartum alopecia. Alopecia usuall is the result of hormonal,age-related, or genetic changes. Androgenis alopecia is often referred to as male-pattern baldness. This type of alopecia is genetically inherited with an onset of approximately 35 year in both men and women. Alopecia areata is characterized by sudden onset of hair loss,often in patches,resulting from an autoimmune response. The people with alopecia areata ,white blood cell attack the hair follicles, preventing hair growth. Males and females of all races can be affected,onset is usually in childhood. Postpartum alopecia aff......ects women shortly after the birth of a child and is temporary. Its usually subsides after 1 year

DANDRUFF BKA PITYRIASIS

 Dandruff,or Pityriasis, is a medical condition characterized by excessive shedding of dead skin cells from the scalp. Dandruff is a result of the fungus Malassezia. Malassezia is prsent on all skin and is only problematic when the cell growth increases to an abnormal level, interfering with naturalcell renewal. Dandruff may be accompanied by inflammaton and redness and should be treated with mild antifungal shampoos containing pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, or ketaconazol . Consultation with a doctor and a topical steriods may be required.

The ph balance of hair

 The ph of hair ranges between 4.5 and 5.5. When selecting products for used on the hair, its is important to condsider the condition of the hair and the ph of the products. The higher the ph, the more alkaline or harsh the product may be. In case of shampoo, a higher ph may be selected to remove buildup.but this turn can strip hair of neccessary oils,resulting in over-stimulation of the sebaceous oil glads in the scalp and worsening of oily hair. Highly porous hair,often a result of overprocessing,is dry and brittle ( lacking nessary oils)and will require a shampoo with a lower ph and therefore less alkalinity. HAIRBYMZFELICA

The 2 types of chemical relaxers

 There are 2 types of chemical relaxers: sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate. Sodium hydroxide relaxer ( also referred to as lye relaxers.have 2% to 3%sodium hydroxide in a cream base.The ph for this type ranges from 11.5 to 14. Ammonium thglycolate relaxer contains 4% to 6% thyglycolate acid and 1% ammonium hydroxide; the ph ranges is 8.8 to 9.5 . The relaxer is appied to the roots of the hair,where it alters the hair shafts structure. Some relaxer require a protective base( petroleum jelly)be placed on the scalp prior to the procedure to prevent burning or irritation. After the relaxing phase is completed, neutralizer is applied to stop the relaxing process and balance the ph. Neutralizers,usually either hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate,or sodium bromateal, are known as fixatives or stabilizer, These bonding agents can cause the hair to be fragile, and hair can be significantly d...amaged by excessive application of relxers. Thanks for all the supports.( hairbymzfelicia)

HAIRBYMZFELICIA

HELLO ALL. Did you guys know that red and black is the haredest color to remove from ur hair? In order to remove then 2 color u must strip ur hair. or u can cut it out. If u go throught that process. u would need to make sure u condition ur hair...color can be very drying and when u strip ur hair u remove everything.. So please used deep conditioning and a leave in... thanks..HAIRBYMZFELICA